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This was the procedure I used for installation of the ballast bag:

I glued a ⅛" thick by " wide PVC ring that I made around the inside of the bag with contact cement. This became the backing plate for the bag.

I drilled six holes through the hull to fasten the hatch to the hull with six 1" long 8-32 bolts and stopnuts.

I centered the hole in the bag with the opening in the hull. I drilled through the holes in the hull, through the bag and through the backing plate that I'd installed in the bag.

Once the bag was installed in the hull I put a bead of 3M 4200 sealant around the hole on the outside of the bag and around the hole inside of the hull.

I then installed the six bolts through the top of the hull through the holes in the bag and backing plate and tightened the nuts.

Once the sealant had cured I removed the six bolts and nuts. The bag was then sealed with sealant around the hole so it could not leak inside the hull.

I then put a bead of sealant around the flange of the hatch and installed it. I reinstalled the six bolts and stopnuts going through the holes in the hatch and the holes in the hull, bag and backing plate that had already been sealed up before. With the six bolts and stopnuts attaching the hatch, hull, bag and backing plate as a sandwich it should never leak or pull away from that area.




The first photo (far left) shows the rear of the ballast bag inside the ama, looking forward through the rear hatch, before the drain pump was fitted. The circular connection at the bottom is a " drain fitting and at the top is a " fill fitting, which are each connected to an Attwood 500 GPH aerator pump (one for fill and one for drain), each with 1.8 Amp draw (only one will be on at a time). The half moon piece on the bottom is to drain any water from the front of the hull. The second photo is the view looking forward through the rear hatch to show the horizontally-mounted drain pump. It is secured with a mount that cannot be seen in the picture but is well supported and secure. The third photo is the view inside the ama looking back through the rear hatch to show the vertically-mounted fill pump with a thru hull fitting, which is secured with caulk and a locknut/screen I fabricated.




Here (near right) is a photo of the waterproof pack I made for the batteries and relays. It contains 12 rechargeable NiMh Sub-C cells to produce 14.4 volts at 4.6 amp hours. That will give me about 180 complete fills or drains per charge. I have two made up so I always have one fully charged and ready to go. The second photo shows the battery pack in the rear hatch installed in its holder. The third photo shows the rear hatch cover. This will lock the battery in place so it cannot move.



The first photo (far left) is of the fill inlet that I faired to a streamlined shape. By removing the caulk, I can loosen the screen/nut to remove the pump body in case it gets damaged. The pump motors are removable from the pump body in case they fail. That way it is a quick change, without having to remove the pump body and hoses. The fairing also protects the inlet from damage if beached or if something hits it. The second photo is a side view to show the feed inlet does not stick down that much and is very streamlined.




Here (near right) is a picture of the drain fitting, which shoots a stream of water at a 45 degree angle away from the ama. I made it higher so I would not need to install a backflow valve. It also serve as a second vent. The photo also shows the three conductor control cable going through a small thru-hull watertight fitting by the rear cross arm to a waterproof on-off-on switch located on the side car (second photo), which is within easy reach for me. Forward

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